Christmas traditions- part two

In other parts of Spain January 6th, Epiphany overshadows December 25th. Children write their letters to the three kings who leave them gifts by the shoes they leave out on January 5th. Being with my friend in Guadalajara, a city near Madrid I could not help, but get caught up in the excitement.

It is interesting to note that because of the gift exchange on the 6th the commercial boxing day is then pushed back to January 7th. However before I get there December 28th, Dia de los Innocentes when King Herod ordered the murder of innocent children, is perversely celebrated like April Fool´s day. Jokes and pranks are pulled on ´Innocente´ or naive people. I missed out being in Croatia for the European Taize meeting, but travelling with a group from Spain I did celebrate New Years Eve by eating grapes. In Spain the tradition is to eat twelve grapes for twelve wishes as the bells ring in the new year. Each person is given twelve grapes in a cup and you have to eat fast. I will write about the Taize trip later, but if you want to find out more now there is some information on the Taize website http://www.taize.fr/

Back in Spain leading up to the 6th children can have their photos taken with one of the Kings and there is also a parade on the night of the 5th. I got see part of the parade and cheer as people in middle eastern dress paraded down the street with torches and laterns. It definitely had an exotic feel as camels walked by carrying gifts and the ornately dressed Kings arrived on elephants throwing candy to the crowds. I am told in other parts of Spain the Kings sometimes arrive by boat or by helicopter. It is also reported on the national news when the Kings arrive and the following day we saw a documentary of a film crew that almost caught the Kings in one house, but in the end all they found was a white glove that was left behind. In the morning after opening the gifts we shared a ´roscon de los reyes´ a special pastry that is prepared for the sixth. Similar to France if you find a small porcelain character inside you are crowned King and if you get a piece with a bean, or something hard you have to pay for the cake.

In the midst of all this celebration I have seen very little Christmas trees. In contrast most houses have a nativity scene. My friend Mamen told me their family added a few extra characters meaning the Kinder Surprise creatures, but I thought she meant the castle. I was told it is quite normal to have King Harold´s castle and even a representation of the entire village. In Catalan it is popular to have a squatting man defecating as part of the display. There are also beautiful Christmas lights decorating the cities, not so much on the houses ( or rather appartment buildings because very few people live in houses here), but the lights are on the trees, in the main squares and important buildings.

Happy New Year ! Feliz Año Nuevo ! Urte Berri On !

I am on my way back to Galicia to explore the idea of looking for work there.